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探寻川菜之味:二荆条辣椒的美食史

时间:2023-05-30 理论教育 版权反馈
【摘要】:Erjingtiao chili川人嗜辣,称辣椒为海椒,而海椒中最著名的就要数二荆条了。诸葛亮取食,顿感满口生津,神清气爽,击掌叫好:“好一个二荆条”,即令军中囤积“二荆条”。2009年,“双流二荆条辣椒”被列为中国国家地理标志产品,还登上了纽约时代广场电子屏,这也是首个登上纽约时代广场的中国农产品。现今黄甲、永安、煎茶、黄龙溪镇等13个乡镇都属二荆条产地保护范围。

探寻川菜之味:二荆条辣椒的美食史

Erjingtiao chili

川人嗜辣,称辣椒为海椒,而海椒中最著名的就要数二荆条了。这二荆条可来历不凡。传说三国时,诸葛亮屯军驯马于牧马山,备战南征。发现遍野椒树挂满海椒,个个乌红发亮,一尺余长,酷若黄荆条。诸葛亮取食,顿感满口生津,神清气爽,击掌叫好:“好一个二荆条”,即令军中囤积“二荆条”。也有说,张飞军中将士因蜀中湿热而染疫,梦中得仙翁启示,用蜀地特产二荆条除湿祛病,既入厨又入药,果有奇效。

辣椒是正宗川菜调料中不可缺少的部分,四川特产的“二荆条辣椒”又与一般辣椒不同,微辣且香,用它煎油色泽红亮,红油能自动向盘边溅射上爬,郫县豆瓣四川泡菜都少不了二荆条,堪称川菜灵魂。

双流所产二荆条尤其出色,色泽红亮、质地细嫩、辣味适中,在清朝是皇家贡品。2009年,“双流二荆条辣椒”被列为中国国家地理标志产品,还登上了纽约时代广场电子屏,这也是首个登上纽约时代广场的中国农产品。现今黄甲、永安、煎茶、黄龙溪镇等13个乡镇都属二荆条产地保护范围。正像诗人赞誉的那样:“半亩辣椒郁郁葱,小时翠绿老时红。浑身不惧千刀碎,色味长留人世中”(邹正《咏辣椒》)。

二荆条火锅
Hot-pot with erjingtiao chill pepper

二荆条火锅
Hot-pot with erjingtiao chill pepper(www.xing528.com)

双流二荆条辣椒
Shuangliu erjingtiao chill pepper

双流二荆条辣椒
Shuangliu erjingtiao chill pepper

W ith a penchant for spicy food, Sichuan people call chili or hot peppers as haijiao. No other chili pepper is more well-know n than erjingtiao. Hot pepper is an integral condiment in authentic Sichuan food. Erjingtiao produced in Sichuan, different from ordinary hot peppers, is m ildly spicy and aromatic. Its chili oil is bright red and is able to splash to and climb up the rim of plates. Erjingtiao is indispensable to Pixian broad bean chili paste and Sichuan pickles. It is arguably the soul of Sichuan food.

Erjingtiao chili produced in Shuangliu is particularly excellent w ith a bright red color, a tender texture and moderate pungency. During the Qing Dynasty, Shuangliu’s erjingtiao was once a tribute item. In 2009, Shuangliu Erjingtiao Pepper was named a China GIprotected Product. In 2017, it appeared on a digital billboard in Times Square, NYC, becom ing the f irst ever Chinese agricultural product advertised in Times Square. Today, the protection scope of erjingtiao’s places of origin covers 13 tow ns or tow nships, including Huangjia, Yong’an, Jiancha and Huanglongxi.

黄甲麻羊节主题晚会
Huangjia Ma Goat Festival Theme Evening

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